2014 Peugeot 508 1.6 THP 165 EAT6 – Workshop Repair Manual

FAQs

• Why is my 2014 Peugeot 508 1.6 THP 165 EAT6 consuming so much oil, and what can I do about it?

  Ah, the 1.6 THP engine! It's a fantastic little engine for performance, but it does have a bit of a reputation for being thirsty for oil, especially as it gets some miles on it. While a tiny bit of oil consumption (maybe like a liter every 5,000 km or so) is sometimes considered normal for these direct injection engines, if you're pouring in a liter every 1,000 km, that's definitely a sign something's up. Here's a breakdown of the common culprits and what you might do:

  Common Reasons for High Oil Consumption

  • Valve Stem Seals: This is a really, really common one on these engines. Over time, those little rubber seals around the valve stems can harden and lose their elasticity. When that happens, oil can easily seep past them and into the combustion chamber where it gets burned up. This often accounts for a good chunk of the oil disappearing act.
  • PCV Valve Issues: Your Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system helps manage crankcase pressures and re-circulate oil vapors. If the PCV valve or its membrane gets stuck or fails, it can create too much vacuum in the crankcase. This literally sucks oil vapors, and sometimes liquid oil, right into the intake system, where it gets burned. You might even see a bit of oil inside the intake hoses near the turbo.
  • Worn Piston Rings: The piston rings are designed to seal the combustion chamber and scrape oil off the cylinder walls. If they're worn or stuck (often from carbon buildup), oil can get past them into the combustion chamber. This is usually a more significant repair.
  • Turbocharger Leaks: The turbocharger itself has bearings that are lubricated by engine oil. If these internal seals start to fail, oil can leak into either the exhaust or intake side of the turbo, and you guessed it, it gets burned. You might notice blueish smoke from the exhaust, especially when you accelerate.

  What You Can Do About It

  First off, if you're concerned, it's always best to have a good mechanic, especially one familiar with THP engines, take a look. They can properly diagnose the exact cause. But here are some steps that are often helpful:

  1. Replace Valve Stem Seals: This is often the most effective fix for reducing oil consumption. Sometimes it can even be done without removing the entire cylinder head, which is a big plus, but still a job for a pro.
  2. Inspect and Replace PCV Valve/System: If your mechanic suspects the PCV system, replacing the valve or the entire valve cover (as the membrane is often integrated) can make a real difference.
  3. Check the Turbocharger: A visual inspection for oil inside the turbo's intake and exhaust sides can give clues. If it's leaking, it might need a rebuild or replacement.
  4. Use the Right Oil and Change It Regularly: This is super important! Make sure you're using the exact oil specification recommended by Peugeot for your 1.6 THP engine, which is typically a 5W-30 fully synthetic oil meeting the PSA B71 2290 or B71 2312 standard. Don't just top up; consider more frequent full oil and filter changes, perhaps even cutting the manufacturer's suggested interval in half, especially if you do a lot of city driving. Fresh, good quality oil helps prevent carbon buildup and keeps things working as they should.
  5. Monitor Oil Levels Diligently: Seriously, check your oil regularly, like once a week or every few fuel stops. Don't wait for the low oil warning light to come on! These engines don't like running low on oil at all.
  6. Consider a Carbon Clean: While not a direct fix for oil consumption, carbon buildup on the intake valves can worsen engine efficiency and contribute to other issues. A "walnut blasting" service can thoroughly clean these deposits.

  Addressing these issues can really improve your 508's oil consumption and overall engine health. It's often a process of elimination, but starting with the most common and accessible fixes is usually the way to go.

• Does the EAT6 automatic transmission in my 2014 Peugeot 508 1.6 THP 165 EAT6 really have "lifetime fluid," or should I change it?

  That's a fantastic question, and one we hear a lot! When manufacturers like Peugeot say "lifetime fluid" for an automatic transmission like your EAT6, it generally means they expect it to last the reasonable life of the vehicle without needing a fluid change under ideal conditions. However, in the real world, things are a bit different.

  The "Lifetime Fluid" Myth

  The truth is, transmission fluid, just like engine oil, degrades over time and with use. It gets exposed to heat, friction, and contaminants from normal wear and tear inside the gearbox. When the fluid breaks down, it loses its lubricating properties, its ability to dissipate heat, and can even become abrasive. This can lead to increased wear on internal components, harsher shifts, and eventually, costly transmission problems.

  Many independent mechanics and transmission specialists, as well as owners who've had long-term success with these Aisin-sourced EAT6 gearboxes (which are generally quite good!), strongly recommend regular fluid changes. It's often seen as crucial preventative maintenance, not just for the Peugeot 508, but for many automatic transmissions.

  What We Recommend for Your EAT6

  For your 2014 Peugeot 508 1.6 THP 165 EAT6 with the EAT6 transmission, we generally advise against strictly adhering to the "lifetime" fluid idea. Here's why and what to do:

  • Recommended Change Interval: A common recommendation for this type of Aisin 6-speed automatic (AWTF 80SC) is to change the fluid every 60,000 kilometers (around 37,000 miles) or roughly every 6 years, whichever comes first. If you drive in harsh conditions (like heavy city traffic, very hot climates, or towing), you might even consider doing it a bit more frequently, say every 40,000-50,000 km.
  • Fluid Specification: It's absolutely critical to use the correct fluid. For the EAT6, you'll need an oil that meets JWS3324, AW1, and the specific Peugeot 9734R7 standard. There are good aftermarket options like Motul ATF VI, but always double-check the specifications to be sure.
  • Partial Drain and Fill: Your EAT6 gearbox holds about 7 to 8 liters of fluid in total. However, during a simple drain and fill, you'll only get out about 3 to 4 liters. This means you'll need to do multiple drain and fill cycles to effectively refresh the fluid. For example, doing three drain and fills, spaced a bit apart (maybe driving a few hundred miles between each), will replace a much larger percentage of the old fluid.

  How a Fluid Change Generally Works (Partial Method)

  Please note, this is a general overview. Always consult your vehicle's workshop manual or a trusted mechanic for precise instructions and torque specifications for your specific model.

  1. Warm it Up: Drive the car for about 15 minutes to get the transmission fluid warm. Warm fluid drains more completely.
  2. Lift Safely: Safely raise and support the front of your car using a jack and jack stands, or on a lift, ensuring it's level.
  3. Locate and Drain: Find the transmission drain plug (usually on the bottom of the transmission body itself, not a separate pan). Place a drain pan underneath and carefully remove the plug. Let the fluid drain fully.
  4. Refill: Reinstall the drain plug, tightening it to the correct torque. Then, locate the fill plug (this can vary, sometimes on the side or top) and add about 3 to 4 liters of the new, specified transmission fluid using a pump or a funnel with a long hose.
  5. Circulate (Crucial for Multi-Cycle): With the new fluid in, start the engine. With your foot firmly on the brake, slowly shift through all the gear positions (P, R, N, D, M) and hold each for a few seconds. This helps circulate the new fluid and mix it with the old.
  6. Repeat: To get a truly good fluid refresh, repeat steps 3-5 at least two more times. This dilutes the old fluid significantly.
  7. Check Level: This is the most critical step and can be tricky. On Aisin transmissions, the fluid level is often checked by adding fluid until it overflows from a specific port at a very precise temperature. Incorrect fluid levels can cause serious issues. If you're unsure about this, definitely get professional help.
  8. Reset Counter: If you have a diagnostic tool (like Diagbox for Peugeot), it's good practice to reset the transmission's oil degradation counter after the fluid change. Some models track this, and resetting it can improve shift quality and ensure the ECU is operating with accurate information about the fluid's condition.

  While the initial cost of a fluid change might seem like an expense, it's a small price to pay to potentially avoid much larger transmission repair bills down the road. It really does help your EAT6 gearbox last longer and perform more smoothly.

• My 2014 Peugeot 508's automatic handbrake isn't working correctly; what should I check or do?

  Oh, the automatic handbrake on your 2014 Peugeot 508 acting up can certainly be a bit of a headache! It's usually a pretty reliable system, but when it misbehaves, it can be frustrating. Let's look at some common reasons and what you might consider:

  Common Issues with the Automatic Handbrake

  • Software Glitches: Believe it's not, sometimes it's just a software hiccup. Peugeot has even issued recalls or suggested software updates for braking systems, including elements that can affect the handbrake's operation. This is especially true if you've recently had brake work done (like new rear pads) and the handbrake's automatic mode didn't reactivate properly. The system might need to be "told" it's ready again.
  • Faulty Components: Unfortunately, sometimes parts can fail.
    • Electric Motor in the Caliper: Each rear brake caliper has a small electric motor that engages the handbrake. If one of these motors goes bad, it can prevent the brake from engaging or releasing correctly. You might hear a clicking noise from the back of the car when you try to activate it, but nothing happens.
    • Brake Sensor: Less common, but a faulty sensor in the braking system could send incorrect signals, confusing the handbrake module.
    • EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) Module: This is the brain of the operation. If the module itself is faulty, it can lead to various malfunctions.
    • Wiring Issues: Sometimes, it's just a loose connection or damaged wiring, especially in areas prone to moisture or movement.
    • Handbrake Switch: The button you press to manually engage/disengage the handbrake can occasionally fail.
  • Battery Issues: While not a direct cause, a low or failing car battery can sometimes cause electronic systems, including the handbrake, to behave erratically or throw up strange errors. The system needs stable voltage to operate correctly.

  What You Should Check or Do

  Given the complexity and safety-critical nature of the braking system, if you're experiencing a handbrake fault, it's always best to err on the side of caution. Here’s a sensible approach:

  1. Check for Simple Resets:
     • Sometimes, just turning the car off, locking it, and leaving it for a few minutes (say, 15-30 minutes) can allow the system to reset itself. It's a long shot, but sometimes works for minor glitches.
     • If you recently had battery work done, ensure the terminals are clean and tight.
  2. Verify Normal Operation: Understand how your handbrake should work. It should automatically engage when you turn the car off (if configured to do so) and release automatically when you put the car in gear and press the accelerator (or manually if you prefer using the button). If it's doing something odd, like only partially engaging or refusing to release, that's a clear sign.
  3. Listen for Sounds: Pay attention to any unusual noises when you try to engage or disengage the handbrake. A clicking or grinding noise from the rear wheels could point to a faulty caliper motor.
  4. Check for Recalls: It's a good idea to contact your local Peugeot dealership or check Peugeot's official website with your VIN to see if your car is subject to any active recalls related to the braking system or handbrake. If so, the repair (often a software update) will be covered.
  5. Professional Diagnosis (Highly Recommended): This is truly the most important step.
     • Get it Scanned: A qualified mechanic or a Peugeot dealership will have diagnostic tools (like Peugeot's Diagbox) that can read specific fault codes from the EPB module. These codes will pinpoint exactly what the system thinks is wrong, which is invaluable for diagnosis.
     • Software Update: If the scan indicates a calibration issue or a known software bug, they can perform the necessary software update. This is quite common, especially if the handbrake wasn't put into "maintenance mode" correctly during previous brake servicing.
     • Component Inspection: If it's not a software issue, they can systematically test the components – the motors on the calipers, the EPB module, the switch, and the wiring – to find the faulty part.

  Don't ignore an automatic handbrake fault, as it's a critical safety system. Getting it properly diagnosed will save you time, money, and provide peace of mind.

• What should I do if the infotainment system in my 2014 Peugeot 508 1.6 THP 165 EAT6 freezes or acts up?

  Oh, the joys of modern car tech! Infotainment systems, while super convenient, can sometimes throw a wobble. If your 2014 Peugeot 508's system starts freezing, lagging, or generally misbehaving, don't panic. Here are some steps you can take, starting with the simplest:

  1. Try a Soft Reset (The Quick Reboot)

  This is often the first and easiest thing to try, much like restarting your phone or computer. It usually works for minor glitches:

  • With the ignition on (engine can be running or just accessory mode), locate the "phone" piano key button on your central dashboard.
  • Press and hold this "phone" button down for about 8-10 seconds.
  • You should see the screen go blank for a moment, and then the system should reboot. Let go of the button once it starts to come back to life.

  This simple reboot often clears temporary software issues without affecting any of your settings or stored data.

  2. Perform a Factory Reset (More Drastic, but Effective)

  If the soft reset doesn't work, or if the system is consistently acting up, a factory reset might be needed. Be aware that this will erase all your personal data, like paired Bluetooth devices, saved navigation destinations, and custom settings (units, temperature, etc.). You'll have to set everything up again.

  1. Insert your key and start the car, or at least ensure the instrument cluster and central display are fully on.
  2. On the central display, navigate to the "Settings" menu. This is usually represented by a small gear icon.
  3. Look for "System Settings" or a similar option.
  4. Then, find and select "Factory Settings."
  5. Finally, choose "Reset" and confirm the operation when prompted.

  3. Other Troubleshooting Tips

  • Just Turn it Off and Leave it: Sometimes, for a frozen screen, simply turning off the engine, locking the car, and leaving it completely undisturbed for about 15-30 minutes can allow the system to power down fully and self-correct. It's surprisingly effective sometimes.
  • Disconnect the Battery (Last Resort): If nothing else works, you can try disconnecting your car's battery for about 30 seconds, then reconnecting it. This forces a hard reset of all electronic modules. However, be cautious with this! It can sometimes mean you'll need to reset other electronic systems in your car, and it's generally best avoided unless you're comfortable with it or advised by a professional. Ensure you know any radio codes or reset procedures for other systems if applicable.
  • Check Car Battery Health: Oddly enough, a weak or dying car battery can cause all sorts of strange electronic gremlins, including infotainment issues. If your car is showing other signs of a weak battery (slow cranking, other electrical malfunctions), it might be worth checking its voltage with a multimeter.
  • Inspect Fuses: If the screen is completely black and won't turn on at all, a blown fuse could be the culprit. Consult your owner's manual for the location of the fuse box and which fuse controls the infotainment system.
  • Software Updates: Outdated software can be a source of bugs and instability. Regularly check for software and map updates for your infotainment system. You can often do this through the MyPeugeot app or by visiting a Peugeot retailer. Keeping the system updated can prevent many problems and improve overall performance.

  If you've tried all these steps and your infotainment system is still giving you trouble, it's probably time to visit a Peugeot service center or a qualified auto electrician. They have specialized diagnostic tools that can pinpoint hardware failures or more complex software issues that you can't solve at home.

• I've noticed water in the boot of my 2014 Peugeot 508. What are the common causes and how can I fix them?

  Oh, water in the boot is never a fun discovery, and unfortunately, it's a fairly known quirk with the Peugeot 508, especially the sedan version. You're definitely not alone in finding water pooling in the spare wheel well or just dampness in the boot lining. Good news is, there are some very common culprits and straightforward fixes for most of them. Let's dig in!

  Common Causes of Boot Leaks and How to Address Them

  1. The Boot Closing Stoppers (Very Common!)

  These are perhaps the most frequent offenders. You'll find two black, somewhat mushroom-shaped stoppers on either side of the upper boot opening, where the boot lid rests when closed. Over time, the seals under these stoppers can degrade, allowing water to trickle directly into the boot, often leading to a small pool in the spare tire area.

  How to Fix It:

  1. Access the Stoppers: Open your boot wide. You might need to remove some of the lower lining mats and the wheel cover to get good access. The side linings are usually held by a couple of plastic clips; gently pop those out.
  2. Remove Stoppers: From underneath, you can usually push or gently pry these stoppers out. They're often just clipped in.
  3. Clean and Seal: Thoroughly clean and dry the area around the hole where the stopper sits, both on the top (outer) side and underneath (inner boot side).
  4. Apply Silicone: Get some good quality silicone sealant (automotive-grade or even bathroom silicone works well). Apply a generous bead of silicone around the hole on the top side, making sure it will create a good barrier when the stopper is re-inserted. You can also apply some from the inside, underneath the stopper, for extra measure.
  5. Reinstall: Push the stoppers back into place firmly. Let the silicone cure fully before exposing it to rain (check the sealant's instructions, usually 24 hours).

  2. Air Vents Behind the Rear Bumper

  Your car has air vents, typically one on each side, located behind the rear bumper. These are designed to allow air pressure to equalize when you close a door or boot, but they have rubber seals that can become brittle or compromised. When these fail, rainwater can easily creep in, often appearing behind your rear lights and eventually finding its way under the spare wheel.

  How to Fix It:

  1. Access the Vents: This can be a bit trickier. You'll likely need to partially remove the rear bumper or at least pull back the wheel arch liners to get to them. There might be a single 10mm bolt in the wheel arch that helps.
  2. Remove Vents: Once accessed, the vents usually pull out.
  3. Clean and Seal: Just like with the stoppers, thoroughly clean and dry the vent and its seating area on the car's body.
  4. Apply Silicone: Apply silicone sealant around the rubber seal of the vent before pushing it back into place. You can also add a bead of silicone along the top edge once it's installed to prevent water from sitting in that gap.
  5. Reassemble: Reinstall any liners or bumper parts you removed.

  3. Boot Seal/Weatherstrip

  The main rubber seal that runs around the entire boot opening can also be a culprit. Over time, it can harden, crack, or even become dislodged. A quick visual inspection can usually tell you if it's damaged or out of place.

  How to Fix It:

  • Inspect: Run your hand along the entire seal. Look for any cracks, flat spots, or areas where it's pulled away from the body.
  • Reseat/Replace: If it's just pulled out, try pressing it back firmly into its groove. If it's visibly damaged, stretched, or cracked, replacing the entire boot seal is the best solution. They usually just pull off and push back on, but ensure you get the correct part for your 508.

  4. Rear Light Clusters

  Sometimes, the seals around the rear light clusters can fail, allowing water to enter behind the lights themselves and then drain into the boot. This is less common than the other two, but worth checking.

  How to Fix It:

  • Remove Lights: You'll need to open the boot and locate the retaining nuts or screws that hold the light clusters in place from the inside. Carefully remove them and pull the light unit away from the body.
  • Inspect and Seal: Check the rubber gasket or seal around the light housing. If it's compressed or damaged, clean the area on both the light and the car body, and apply silicone sealant to create a new watertight barrier before reinstalling the light.

  Don't Forget Drainage

  If you've had a lot of water collect in your spare tire well, some owners find it helpful to drill a small, about 8mm, drainage hole in the very center of the rubber bung at the lowest point of the well. Let all the water drain out, ensure it's completely dry, and then seal that hole with silicone. It helps ensure any future minor ingress can escape, but ideally, you'll fix the source!

  After any of these fixes, give your car a good wash with a hose (or wait for the next heavy rain) and check the boot again to confirm the leak is gone. Happy drying!

• What are the common causes of a rattling noise from the engine of my 2014 Peugeot 508 1.6 THP 165 EAT6?

  Hearing a rattling noise from your 2014 Peugeot 508's 1.6 THP 165 EAT6 engine can definitely be concerning, and unfortunately, this particular engine (the "Prince" engine, co-developed with BMW) does have a few known culprits for such noises. The most talked-about one, by far, relates to the timing chain. Let's break down the common causes:

  1. Timing Chain Issues (The Most Common Culprit)

  This is probably the first thing any mechanic familiar with the 1.6 THP engine will suspect. The timing chain on these engines, especially in earlier iterations (though even the 165hp versions can be susceptible over time), has a known tendency to stretch. When the chain stretches, or if the hydraulic chain tensioner becomes weak or fails, it can lead to a distinct rattling or clattering noise.

  • Symptoms:
    • The rattling is often most noticeable on a cold start, and it might last for a few seconds or even a minute or two before quieting down as oil pressure builds.
    • It can also be heard at idle or when accelerating, sounding like a "death rattle" or a bag of spanners.
    • In more severe cases, a stretched chain can cause incorrect valve timing, leading to engine performance issues, misfires, loss of power, and potentially triggering a "check engine" light.
  • Why it Happens: The hydraulic tensioner relies on oil pressure to keep the chain taut. If the tensioner itself is weak, or if oil quality has degraded, it might not apply enough pressure. A stretched chain means there's too much slack.
  • The Fix: The solution usually involves replacing the timing chain itself, along with the chain tensioner and often the chain guides. In some cases, the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets might also need replacing. This is a complex job that requires special tools to ensure correct engine timing, so it's definitely one for a qualified mechanic.

  2. Carbon Buildup on Intake Valves

  Direct injection engines like the 1.6 THP can accumulate significant carbon deposits on the intake valves because fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, bypassing the valves (which normally get a cleaning wash from fuel in older engine designs). While primarily causing performance loss, severe carbon buildup can sometimes contribute to rough running and perhaps subtle knocking noises, though less of a distinct rattle.

  • Symptoms: Loss of power, rough idle, misfires, hesitation, and sometimes a slight hesitation or unevenness in engine operation. Not typically a loud rattle, but worth mentioning as a common issue.
  • The Fix: Regular cleaning, often via a process called "walnut blasting," which physically removes the carbon deposits.

  3. High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)

  While known more for causing cold start issues and power limitations, a failing HPFP can sometimes create unusual noises, including a ticking or rattling sound, especially if it's struggling to maintain pressure.

  • Symptoms: Difficult cold starts, engine stalling during warm-up, a "check engine" light, reduced power, and sometimes a distinct ticking or rattling from the pump area itself.
  • The Fix: Replacement of the HPFP.

  4. Other Less Common Rattles (But Still Possible!)

  • Accessory Belt Tensioner/Pulleys: A worn-out accessory belt tensioner or one of the pulleys (like the idler pulley or alternator pulley) could develop a rattle, especially when cold. This sound would typically come from the front side of the engine.
  • Loose Heat Shields: Sometimes, a loose or corroded heat shield around the exhaust manifold or catalytic converter can vibrate and cause a metallic rattling sound. This is usually more noticeable when revving the engine or at certain RPMs.
  • Exhaust System Issues: A loose exhaust hanger, a broken internal baffle in the muffler, or even a crack in the exhaust manifold can create rattling or ticking noises.

  What to Do Next

  Given that the timing chain is the most likely and serious culprit for rattling in your 1.6 THP, it's really important to get this checked out sooner rather than later. If the timing chain breaks or jumps significantly, it can cause catastrophic engine damage. Take your 508 to a reputable mechanic who has experience with Peugeot's 1.6 THP engines. They'll be able to listen to the noise, run diagnostics, and accurately pinpoint the source of the rattle.

  How do I perform a basic soft reset or troubleshoot a frozen screen on my 2014 Peugeot 508's infotainment system?

  Dealing with a frozen or misbehaving infotainment screen in your 2014 Peugeot 508 can be pretty annoying, especially when you're relying on navigation or music. Good news is, there are some fairly straightforward steps you can try to get it back on track, starting with a simple soft reset, which is often all it needs. Think of it like restarting your computer when it acts up!

  1. The "Soft Reset" (Quick & Easy Reboot)

  This is usually the first thing to try, and for many minor glitches or frozen screens, it does the trick. It won't erase any of your personal settings or Bluetooth connections, which is a big plus.

  1. Ensure Ignition is On: Make sure your car's ignition is on. The engine can be running, or you can just have it in accessory mode (where the radio and screen are powered on but the engine isn't necessarily running).
  2. Locate the "Phone" Button: On your central dashboard, typically below the screen, you'll find a row of "piano key" buttons. Look for the one with the "phone" symbol.
  3. Press and Hold: Press and hold this "phone" button down for about 8 to 10 seconds.
  4. Observe the Reboot: You should see the screen go blank, and then the system should start its boot-up sequence again. Once it starts, you can release the button.

  After it reboots, see if the system is responding normally. Often, this is enough to clear temporary software hiccups.

  2. Troubleshooting a Stubbornly Frozen Screen

  If the soft reset didn't quite do the trick, or if the screen is totally unresponsive, here are a couple more things to try, moving from least to most involved:

  1. The "Long Sleep" Method:
     • Turn off your car's engine completely.
     • Remove the key from the ignition (if applicable) and open your driver's door to ensure all systems power down.
     • Close and lock all the doors.
     • Leave the car alone for at least 15 to 30 minutes. Sometimes, the system just needs a full power cycle to reset itself, and this allows all modules to properly shut down.
  2. Check the Car Battery (Important!):
     • A weak or failing car battery can cause all sorts of strange electronic issues, including your infotainment system acting erratically or not turning on.
     • If your car is struggling to start, or if other electronic components are behaving oddly, it might be worth getting your battery tested or checking its voltage with a multimeter. A healthy car battery is crucial for modern vehicle electronics.
  3. Inspect Fuses:
     • If the screen is completely black and doesn't even attempt to light up, a blown fuse could be the culprit.
     • Refer to your Peugeot 508's owner's manual to find the location of the fuse boxes (there's usually one in the dash/cabin and one under the bonnet) and identify which fuse corresponds to the infotainment system or radio.
     • Carefully remove and visually inspect the fuse. If it's blown (the wire inside will be broken), replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage.
  4. The "Hard Reset" (Battery Disconnect - Last Resort!):
     • This is a more drastic step and should only be considered if all else fails, and you're comfortable working with your car's battery.
     • Safety First: Ensure the car is off, the key is out of the ignition, and you're wearing appropriate safety gear (gloves, eye protection).
     • Disconnect: Locate your car battery (often in the boot or under the bonnet). Disconnect the negative (-) terminal first, then the positive (+) terminal.
     • Wait: Leave the battery disconnected for about 30 seconds to a minute. This drains any residual power from the system's capacitors.
     • Reconnect: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first, then the negative (-). Ensure connections are clean and tight.
     • Be Aware: After a hard reset, you might lose some settings across the car (e.g., window auto-up/down calibration, radio presets), and potentially trigger some fault codes that may need clearing with a diagnostic tool.

  4. Software Updates

  While not a direct fix for a frozen screen, keeping your infotainment system's software updated is very important for preventing future glitches and ensuring optimal performance. You can often check for updates via the MyPeugeot app or have your local Peugeot retailer perform them. Sometimes, a known bug that causes freezing is resolved in a newer software version.

  If after trying these steps your infotainment system is still giving you grief, it's definitely time to schedule an appointment with a Peugeot service center or a qualified auto electrician. They have specialized diagnostic equipment (like Diagbox) that can pinpoint deeper electrical issues or hardware failures.